Nature's Minerals: Makeup That's Good For Your Skin?

One of the hottest trends in make-up today is loose-powder mineral cosmetics. With brand names like "naked", "bare" and "pure", one would think that mineral makeup is one of the best products for your skin. To a point that's true. Because many of the traditional additives in cosmetics - fragrance, filler, binders, synthetic dyes and preservatives - are not a part of mineral makeup, these new, "natural" cosmetics are easier on the skin, but don't be fooled. According to WebMD, the major mineral components in this trendy new make-up "have been the basis of most makeup foundations for decades." What's more, many of the ingredients are actually synthetically formulated, which takes "nature" right out of the picture, in a manner of speaking.

Here's the lowdown on the 4 most common "minerals" found in today's hottest cosmetics:

Iron Oxide. More commonly known as rust, certain isotopes of iron oxide have been used since prehistoric times as pigments, paints and dyes. Different chemical configurations create different colors, most often red, brown, yellow and black tones. There is a large concentration of iron oxide on Mars, thus giving it the red hue, and the nickname "the red planet". According to Wikipedia, however: "Iron oxides graded safe for cosmetic use are produced synthetically in order to avoid the inclusion of ferrous or ferric oxides, and impurities normally found in naturally occurring iron oxides."

Nature's own minerals being replicated in a lab? Doesn't sound very "natural" to me!

Titanium Dioxide. From paint, to sunscreen to food coloring, this naturally occurring substance has also been used in cosmetics for decades - primarily as a thickener and, more recently, for the SPF protection that it provides. Most dermatologists would agree, however that no matter the SPF, mineral makeup by itself is not enough sun protection for the skin of your face. Dermatologists recommend a minimum SPF rating of 25 for face protection. And never tuck yourself in at night without washing your face. No makeup is pure enough "to sleep in it". Plus the recent concerns over the recent classification of titanium dioxide as a "group 2B carcinogen" have people reexamining the benefits of the mineral. This classification indicates that the mineral could be potentially carcinogenic to humans, as it has been found to cause cancer in rats that inhaled the particles.

As most mineral makeups are in a loose, powder form, it is unclear at this point if it will pose a future threat to humans. One of the biggest complaints regarding mineral makeup is the loose powder spillage and dispersion in the air during application. According to WebMD, however, the fine particulate matter of the makeup may pose other concerns. "Minerals like zinc and titanium are safe when applied to healthy skin but in a micronized nanoparticle form, there remains a concern, particularly when applied to damaged skin, or when inhaled".

Mica. Though to be derived from an ancient word for "glitter", mica's light diffusing properties have made it a component in eye colors for decades. Highly heat resistant, mica has been prized for centuries and is the predominant component of the sun pyramid just outside of Mexico City. In mineral makeup, mica is used to reflect light, create a shimmering effect or to help disguise fine lines by "bending" light. Mica was extremely rare and prized throughout Europe during the 19th century. Now, mica is easily refined and is one of the truly natural minerals in cosmetics today.

Kaolin/ Kaolinite. This earthy clay hardens to a soft, chalk-like substance. This nearly white mineral is prevalent around the globe, and is another true mineral in mineral cosmetics. Because of the absorbent nature of clay, it adheres more uniformly to the contours of facial skin and holds its position better than most liquid foundations. It is kaolin and other clays like it (some companies are using "Mediterranean" clay, commonly known as illite, which is a cousin to kaolinite) that gives mineral make-up the long lasting coverage for which it is popular.

So if you have to choose, mineral make-up is probably the lesser of all cosmetic evils, and even a great choice for people with acne-prone skin. The clay helps to absorb excess oils, and gives a "flawless" professional finish with even coverage. One mineral to steer clear of, however is bismuth oxychloride. While this element is technically a mineral, it does not occur naturally, and "Bismuth is a byproduct of lead and copper processing" according to the experts at WebMD. It is strongly cautioned that people with sensitive skin, rosacea or chronic acne avoid this ingredient, as it "is considered a skin irritant and can cause itching and rashes and in large amounts it can cause cystic acne."

For normal to oily skin, makeup made from nature's minerals are a blessing, but for dry/sensitive skin, heavy applications of mineral makeup can be too drying on the skin, emphasizing fine lines and "weighing down" the skin's appearance. A simple trick to improve the coverage without applying a second coat? Mist your face to add a bit of moisture before applying the makeup, and consider using a less diffuse applicator brush. The smaller the brush, the heavier and more direct the coverage. As technology and testing catches up with this cosmetic trend, watch for mineral makeup that is actually proven suitable for sensitive skin. It's only a matter of time.
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Lisa M. Robbin Young gives "face time" to hundreds of women each month, as a skin care consultant, author and entrepreneur. Sign up for her free newsletter, "Beauty Remarks" and get a free copy of her book, "Saving Face" at http://www.lisamrobbin.com/savingface.aspx